Down Carnarvon Way
By Nick Yell
Down Carnarvon Way
We called Pieter at quarter-past six on a Sunday evening. It had been a long day in the saddle, a day of crossing thick sandy rivers, perilous rocky passes and dodging aardvark holes in the fading light. And, even though dirt track motor bike riding across the often exacting Karoo landscape is what myself and a group of friends do for fun, come the end of a day, we like to rest-up in comfort somewhere. Preferably at a place that has powerful hot showers, clean fluffy towels and comfort food and drink aplenty.
We’d actually been hoping to make it to Vosburg, where our accommodation (and a venison braai) had been pre-booked, but a challenging 36 kilometre detour we’d taken earlier in the day, which loosely followed a wayward railway track, had cost us nearly three hours — and a good few litres of sweat. So when we’d arrived in Carnarvon at sunset, we were in desperate need of a place to stay. And that’s what Pieter of the Lord Carnarvon guest-house, with no prior notice, was able to offer us; and so much more. Not only were we cosseted in the well-renovated Victorian house (built in 1886 by Frans Carel Te Water), complete with a roaring fire in the lounge plus heaters in our en-suite bedrooms, Pieter also "made a plan" and served us a three-course dinner which included springbok medallions in a special batter and a well-matched red blend called 1659. And with Pieter filling us in on some of the local and guest-house history around the fire later, it just kept getting better all the time.
The guest-house complex, comprising Van Zyl’s House (where we stayed), the Nagmaalkamers (a separate building, but in the same grounds) and the recently completed Officers’ Mess, is steeped in interesting history. But to appreciate this, it’s important to know a little background on the town itself. Carnarvon was originally known as Harmsfontein, a settlement that sprang up around the Rhenish mission station at Schietfontein in about 1860. Prior to the founding of the mission station, hundreds of Xhosa refugees, apparently fleeing the ongoing wars on the eastern frontier of their home territories (now the Eastern Cape), had congregated around the local water source of Schietfontein. Later on, with Trekboers, Basters, Khoi, Koranna and the Xhosa all competing for grazing in the vicinity of this water source, the situation between the various ethnic groups became somewhat tense. It’s not known whether the advent of the mission station and the beginnings of the original town calmed things down between the competing factions, yet with the British expanding their influence ever northwards, Harmsfontein was soon the northernmost magisterial district of the Cape Colony, and was thus renamed Carnarvon (1874) in honour of the then Colonial Secretary, Lord Henry Carnarvon.
The restored British Officers’ Mess (a Masonic Hall in later years) was used by British forces in the Anglo-Boer War and their neighbour, a Mr. Van Zyl (hence the name: Van Zyl’s House), fought alongside them against the Boers. A recipient of an OBE from Queen Victoria, and eventually a Colonel in the British army, Mr. Van Zyl lived in the house for more than forty years where he practiced as an attorney and also became the town’s mayor. Certain reports have it that he always wore full military dress in public, including all his medals, gaining him a reputation as an eccentric. Needless to say, with his strong British allegiances, he had his detractors amongst some of the Boer townsfolk as well.
After an excellent night’s sleep, swaddled in pure cotton linen and a thick puffy duvet, I made for my full English breakfast over at the old Officers’ Mess. Even though it’s now been refurbished, there is still an air of austerity about the place and I half expected Colonel Van Zyl to look up from reading his newspaper on one of the dark brown Chesterfield chairs. What I got instead was an enquiring glance from one of my dirt tracker mates who then stated in mock haughty accent: "Well Captain, it’s going to be hard to improve on these digs tonight, what? Perhaps we shouldn’t book ahead in future old boy."
My sentiments exactly.
If you go …
Getting there: From the N12: Head west for 82 kilometres to Loxton,
and then 63 kilometres from there along the R63 to Carnarvon.
There are more direct routes, but these entail bumpy gravel roads.
What it has: The Lord Carnarvon guest-house complex is made up of three
separate dwellings sharing the same property. Van Zyl’s House has six bedrooms,
four of which are en-suite, the Nagmaalkamers comprise four en-suite bedrooms and
The old Officers’ Mess offers another four en-suite bedrooms. Most of the bedrooms
are air-conditioned and there are a variety of common spaces with cosy fireplaces
and satellite TVs, plus braai facilities in the courtyard outside
Why go there: The town offers typical Karoo character and hospitality and there
are also many historical sites and buildings, such as the original Xhosa settlement
at Schietfontein, De Bult – the first town settlement in the area and many of the
original Rhenish mission buildings are still in good condition. At the museum you can
see an example of an old corbelled house — endemic to this region as wood for roof
timber was scarce — and on top of Carnarvon koppie you can walk through an Anglo-Boer
War fort while appreciating the view of the town.
The food: In-house meals are available by prior arrangement and comprise traditional
Karoo fare, alternatively bookings can be made for you at other town restaurants.
If you prefer to self-cater, all the necessary equipment is supplied.
Rates: R200 per person sharing and R250 per single person (excludes breakfast at an extra R50).
Contact: Pieter Hoffman on (053) 382 3268 or 082 780 4209, alternately email him at
lordcarnarvon@gmail.com or visit www.wheretostay.co.za